Winter of the Unassuming Matriarch: My Experience at Phama Homestay in Gangtok

Introduction: More Than Just a Stay

Nestled quietly on a slope in Gangtok, the capital of Sikkim, stands a modest cobalt-blue building—a home, a haven, a heartfelt retreat. PhaMa Homestay may not boast opulence, but what it offers is infinitely more valuable: belonging. This is the story of my winter days spent here, under the gentle care of Amchung and Aji—two elderly women whose warmth defies the mountain chill.

First Impressions: A Stairway to Comfort

It was late in the forenoon when I descended the steep stairs from the main road to the vividly blue building. The path was accompanied by an open canal—a curious companion from the moment I stepped out of my taxi. But once inside, the contrast was immediate.

Cool and dim, the foyer welcomed me with cane chairs and a blinking CCTV screen. I called for Dorjee, whom I had spoken to earlier, but was instead greeted by a gentle elderly lady who led me to my room. It was airy, sunlit, and dominated by a beautiful teakwood bed that overlooked dense bamboo groves.

Meeting Amchung and Aji: The Soul of the Homestay

After settling in, I was invited upstairs by Amchung—which means “aunt” in the local Sikkimese dialect. She welcomed me with sweet milk tea served in traditional Tibetan porcelain cups, accompanied by khabzey, a delicious deep-fried Tibetan cookie.

As we exchanged small talk, Aji (meaning elder sister in Sherpa) entered the room—frail, wrapped in a brown woolen shawl, and her eyes clouded with age. I offered her a smile and a cookie. She gently declined. These two women, soft-spoken yet steady, were the beating heart of the home.

A Homely Meal to Remember

Lunch that day was simple, nostalgic, and immensely satisfying:

• Yellow masoor dal tempered with cumin
• Crisp aloo bhaji (stir-fried potatoes)
• Dry chicken curry infused with powdered spices
• Steamed white rice

It reminded me of home. With a full belly, Amchung handed me a flask of hot water and I retired for a midday siesta, the heavy double-layered blanket wrapping me in warmth and slumber.

An Evening of Momo-Making and Memories

By evening, the temperature had dipped, and Amchung suggested making beef momos. I jumped at the opportunity.

She began kneading sooji atta (semolina flour)—a first for me in momo-making. I helped with the chopping, folding, and stuffing while we exchanged stories. Despite her insisting that she and Aji would manage, I felt so at home, I wanted to pitch in.

We laughed, cooked, and sipped on raksi, the local liquor served hot. An aging tomcat with no front teeth made an appearance, begging for fish and curling up in my lap. That moment sealed my affection for both the cat—and the home.

Breakfast With a Side of Silence

The next morning began early for Amchung and Aji, who started their day at 5 AM. One tended to daily prayers, the other cared for the three dogs: Hega, Murphy, and (a third whose name I forgot to ask). By the time I emerged at 8 AM, breakfast was ready—Shyafaley (stuffed fried bread) and leftover fried momos from the night before.

Later, as I prepared to leave for work with my colleague Richard, Amchung handed me a tiffin box packed with lunch, a napkin, and an orange. It’s these small, thoughtful gestures that made me feel like I wasn’t staying at a property—I was living in someone’s home. 

The Heart of Phama Homestay: Amchung

In her unassuming ways, Amchung embodied the gentle, nurturing love of a mother. She quietly ensured that everyone was cared for—never loud, never intrusive, just ever-present. Her soft voice, warm smile, and heartfelt meals linger with me even now.

As I left, it wasn’t just a departure from a stay—it felt like saying goodbye to family.

Why Choose Phama Homestay, Gangtok?

If you’re visiting Gangtok and want more than just a hotel room, Phama Homestay offers:

• Authentic local hospitality
• Delicious home-cooked meals
• Cultural immersion with Sikkimese traditions
• A cozy, peaceful environment
• Easy taxi access from main Gangtok roads

Written by Prerna.S

Prerna, a seasoned travel & hospitality expert, isn't just a writer – she's a curator of experiences. Leading OurGuest's operations at The Barfung Retreat, she leverages her extensive background at Taj, Hyatt, ITC, and more. A Master's graduate in English Literature, Prerna's passion for storytelling is fueled by her childhood spent traversing India with her police officer father. Fluent in Bengali, Hindi, English, and Nepali, she fosters genuine connections across cultures. Join Prerna as she unveils the hidden gems and vibrant soul of Northeast India, one captivating story at a time.

OurGuest verifies and aggregates curated homestays across Sikkim and North-East India. Speak to a local travel expert and book your homestay with us. Contact us at +91-7669503993 or email to contact@ourguest.in