Your Comprehensive Guide to Phe Phe Falls in Meghalaya

Phe Phe Falls Meghalaya: A Complete Travel Guide to Paradise Falls

In late June, on a damp humid day somewhere along the Indo - Bangladesh border, close to the now muddy Umngot river draining into the flood plains beyond; our lone Swift Dzire snaked its way slowly uphill through the wet green foliage across the West Jantia Hills into Amlarem.
The monsoon in Meghalaya had well set in, making the narrow road precarious whenever a lorry lunged at us from the opposite direction carrying a load of heavy boulders from the stone quarries nearby.

Arrival at Phe Phe Falls

As the winding roads gave way to more flatlands, we neared an open expanse of greenery and rolling hills and a row of wooden triangular cottages dotted along the side of a small river bank. It was from here that our foray into Phe Phe Falls began. There is an adorable cafe next to the parking lot where you can grab a quick bite or refreshments. At the banks of the river there is an entry gate where tickets are levied at Rs 50 per person which includes the two way boat fare that ferries you across the stream. On crossing over to the other side you will have to hike through wetlands, stony river banks and dense vegetation before finally descending down to the turquoise waters of the plunge pool.  

About Phe Phe Falls

Phe Phe  Falls is undoubtedly one of Meghalaya’s most stunning waterfalls, nestled in the West Jaintia Hills. Locally known as "Paradise" Falls in the Jaintia language, this gem is located in Shkentalang Village, near Jarain, approximately 20 kilometers from Jowai. Featuring a magnificent two-tiered cascade, Phe Phe Falls plunges 300 feet into striking turquoise-blue pools. This ethereal waterfall is enveloped by verdant forests and imposing cliffs, adding to its spectacular beauty.

How to Reach Phe Phe Falls?

Traveling from Shillong? Begin with a shared taxi to Jowai (60 km, 2 hours). Then, hire a local cab to Jarain, leading to the Adventure Camp parking. Alternatively, many visitors incorporate Phe Phe Falls into a larger Meghalaya Tour, stopping there on the return from Dawki to Shillong via State Highway 206.
To reach Phe Phe Falls from Paradise Adventure Camp, a 30-minute downhill trek through rocky plateaus and bamboo forests awaits. It's highly recommended to include a visit to the nearby Krang Suri Falls and other attractions into your itinerary, especially if you're traveling from or towards Dawki as part of a multi-stop tour.

Trek to Phe Phe Falls:

• Trek Duration: 30–40 minutes
• Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
• Trail Features: Forest paths, bamboo bridges, stream crossings
• Entry Fee: ₹50–₹100 (subject to local updates)

Note: Carry good trekking shoes, a raincoat, and drinking water.

Best Time to Visit Phe Phe Falls - 

Phe Phe Falls is best visited between September and April when the water flow is consistent. Swimming is particularly enjoyable during these seasons. In the monsoons, spanning from June to August, you will get to experience heavier water flow, but the trails become quite slippery and risky to hike. The small stream swells up and the riverbeds become sticky with soft mud and muck.

Things to Do at Phe Phe Falls -

The main attraction after reaching Phe Phe Falls is to dive into the crystal-clear pool at the base of the falls. For those who aren’t competent at swimming there are life jackets available for rent.Kayaking activities are available in the river near Paradise Adventure Camp. You can also choose to camp overnight or stay in the cottages if you aren’t heading to another location for the evening. Stargazing from the campsite, watching the Milky Way roll by is highly recommended from the campsite, which offers minimal artificial light pollution. You can also ask the camp management to organise a bonfire at an extra cost.
You can explore the upper tier of the waterfall  by taking a 15-minute hike from the base for panoramic views and photography options.

Nearby Attractions -

Krang Suri Falls:  

This is an emerald-hued waterfall along Highway 206 when traveling from Jowai to Dawki or vice versa. Krang Suri Falls is located in the West Jaintia Hills district of Meghalaya. It is a breathtaking turquoise colored waterfall cascading into a crystal-clear pool, surrounded by lush green hills. It is known for its serene beauty and vibrant blue waters and  offers activities like swimming, boating, hiking to reach the site. The best time to visit is post-monsoon between the months of October–March. There is an entry fee of around ₹50 per person and the path leading up the waterfall is well maintained and built of a red sand stone step trail.
 

Sua Ludong Falls : 

This lesser known waterfall is tucked away 6 km from Phe Phe falls, is a peaceful gem perfect for the adventurous ones looking to hike and cliff jump. Situated near Thangbuli Village in the Amlarem sub-district, this waterfall is often visited alongside Phe Phe Falls. Its name, "Sua Ludong," originates from the Jaintia language where "Sua" translates to "the last of the water," and "Ludong" refers to the surrounding rocks. Known for its natural pool, cliff-jumping opportunities, and tranquil atmosphere, Sua Ludong Falls offers an escape into raw nature and untouched beauty. This spot is ideal for travelers desiring solitude and a refreshing dip in pristine waters. For a full day of waterfall exploration in Meghalaya’s Jaintia Hills, combine a trip to Sua Ludong Falls along with Phe Phe Falls and Krang Suri. 

Jarain Pitcher Plant Lake : 

Located around 8 kms from Phe Phe Falls, Jarain Pitcher Plant Lake, also known as Umhang Lake, is a captivating man-made lake that appears remarkably natural. This expansive 50,000 sq. meter lake is renowned for its abundant Nepenthes khasiana, a unique carnivorous pitcher plant found exclusively in this area. Dense foliage, elevated wooden walkways, and picturesque vantage points encircle the lake. 
Serving as a habitat for these rare carnivorous plants, Jarain Pitcher Plant Lake combines scientific interest with scenic beauty and tranquil ambiance. It offers a distinctive opportunity to witness Meghalaya's rich biodiversity. This location is an essential stop for botanists, photographers, and travelers  who are searching for extraordinary and less-traveled attractions.

Where to stay while visiting Phe Phe Falls: 

Phe Phe Falls offers limited on-site lodging. Jowai to the North or the Dawki/Shnongpedeng region to the south provide more extensive options for overnight stays.

Paradise Adventure Camp, located at the Phe Phe Falls trailhead, is the closest accommodation available. Tent rentals are available at ₹1000 per person, and cottages at ₹2500 per night. Bonfire services can be arranged for an additional fee. For improved accommodations and service, Lookmyntoor Resort is a viable option. Situated 3.8 km away, the resort features charming, individually crafted cottages made from local materials. Booking in advance is highly recommended, especially during peak tourist season, as rooms often tend to sell out.

Why should you visit Phe Phe Falls?

- Phe Phe Falls remains an offbeat gem. 
- It is free from commercialization.
- It offers both adventure and tranquility. 
- Its beauty is still untouched.
- It is not crowded like other waterfalls on the Cherrapunji stretch.
- It provides a unique mix of excitement and peace.  

Things to know before travelling to Phe Phe Falls : 

In my personal opinion, visiting Phe Phe Falls is practically one of the best decisions that you can make for yourself on your Meghalaya trip especially if you're on the route between Shillong to Dawki via Jowai. However, these are a few things I would come prepared for if I were visiting again:

1. A change of clothes. Since you will be hiking, walking and encountering a host of natural flora and fauna. It's natural to take a dip in the cool waters once at the waterfall. So a towel to dry yourself and a set of dry garments will come in handy when it's time to pack up and leave. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a bad cold and cough like me the next day !

2. Power banks for your devices. Although there will be practically no connectivity near the falls, you will still need your phone for the pictures and videos you will want to take. Battery tends to drain out very quickly when recording videos in high quality and it's always better to come prepared than to regret later.

3. Keep your family and friends informed before heading for the waterfall, so that they will know you will be out of coverage for a while and when to expect you back. This is also useful in tracking your whereas abouts in case of any accidents or any emergency that may occur on your way down.

4. Wear water proof sensible shoes with a good grip and ankle support. The road is sometimes slippery, stony and muddy in patches. 

5. Carry some snacks and beverages (which we ourselves didn’t !)  which you will need after your hike and swim in the pool. You will be both hungry and tired, so don't forget to put in a few energy bars in your backpack. I had a bad case of the munchies and had to wait till I got back all the way to the camp cafe to satiate my hunger. 

While I devoured the biscuits and chips with my hot cup of coffee, that felt as if it was god sent; a lone tabby cat kept me company on the couch while refusing to eat anything I offered. I was the first one in, while the rest of my crew trickled in slowly as the sun was setting in for the evening, reminding us that it was time to wind up and prepare for the long drive back to Shillong. Some of my mates had brought along pineapples from their own fields, which were one of the tastiest I have ever eaten. Pineapples in Meghalaya were a revelation to me on this journey and I came to know that it was also a major cash crop for the state !

With our stomachs now full and a few mandatory group photographs later, we climbed back on to the road headed for our next destination - Shillong. But what awaited us on the road leading  there is an adventure for another post.

Last but certainly not the least, some responsible Travel Tips:

• Leave No Trace – Carry back all plastic waste.
• Respect Local Culture – Dress modestly and ask permission before photographing locals.
• Support Local Guides – They offer not just directions, but also fascinating stories.

Some Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: Is it safe to visit Phe Phe Falls solo?

Yes, but it's recommended to trek with a guide or group for safety.

Q: Are there changing rooms or washrooms near the falls?

No, there are no permanent facilities. Plan accordingly.

Q: Can children or elderly people do the trek?

The trek can be slippery; better suited for those with moderate fitness levels.

Written by Prerna S:
Prerna, a seasoned travel & hospitality expert, isn't just a writer – she's a curator of experiences. Leading OurGuest's operations at The Barfung Retreat, she leverages her extensive background at Taj, Hyatt, ITC, and more. A Master's graduate in English Literature, Prerna's passion for storytelling is fueled by her childhood spent traversing India with her police officer father. Fluent in Bengali, Hindi, English, and Nepali, she fosters genuine connections across cultures. Join Prerna as she unveils the hidden gems and vibrant soul of Northeast India, one captivating story at a time. 

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